“Italy is Eataly”.   We know we have a sweet apartment when the street is too narrow for cars, there is the best little outdoor café within 50 feet, music and angels float out from Sunday mass in the cathedral next door, and one block away is the main plaza of Palermo.  Left the street market – right Massimo Theater.  Perfetto!  The only thing left is to wander and discover what Sicily is all about.  Exploring Eataly is the best place to start.

Only making it about 50 feet down our alley we got into a lively discussion with a waiter and before we knew it we were enjoying their fresh antipasto buffet.  Salad taken care of, we continued down to the corner and Bam!  Ballaro Street Market.  Now this is Sicily!  In the tenth century an Arab traveler wrote, “… prepare yourself to live an unrepeatable experience.”  A kaleidoscope of colors, fragrances and sensations, we worked our way through the bustling crowds.  The bazaar’s street food begged to be sampled; panelle or chick pea fritters of Arabic origin, deep fried eggplants, or fried rice balls filled with mushrooms started us off.  Eating as we walked, our ‘progressive dinner’ included hot crispy Sicilian pizza and vegan pasta.  The cherry on top was the creamiest vegan chocolate gelato to date.  Luckily we didn’t have far to roll back to our apartment!  Eataly doesn’t factor in counting calories.  Tomorrow we will do better and walk off any extra pounds!!

Capo Bazaar is just as lively as Ballaro Market.  Capo dates back to Arab rule of Palermo and served primarily as a hideaway for the Schiavoni (pirates and slave merchants).  Walking there insured the whittling off of a few gelatos stored under our belts.

One of Sicily’s weirdest, yet interesting sites, is Capuchin Monastery Catacombs. In the 1600s, the cemetery of the Capuchin monks was full. Instead of enlarging the cemetery when Brother Silvestro of Gubbio died, the monks decided to excavate the crypts below the cemetery and mummified him so they could continue to be and pray with him. It is this monk who greets you at the entrance to the catacombs 400 years later (since 1599).  The monks later opened this service up to wealthy Palermo residents and soon it became a kind of ‘keep up (or down below) with the Jones’s social frenzy.  Seems like a new Jag, the latest ‘I Phone’ or a Botox treatment would have been easier!  It was very costly to embalm or mummify remains and to keep them dressed in the latest fashion. There are rooms dedicated for virgins, women, children and infants, men; some standing – some lying in glass coffins. Bizarre to say the least. Reminded us of some of the interesting burial rituals of the Toraja of Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Just down our alley was one of the biggest opera houses in Europe, Teatro Massimo is renowned for its excellent acoustics and holds over 1,300 seats. The venue hosts more than 130 music, opera and dance events every year. The exteriors are in neo-classical style with influences from Greek Sicilian temples, while the interiors are art-nouveau.  Who could resist enjoying a once in a life time performance of La Traviata?

Verdi’s “La Traviata” is one of the greatest operas for so many reasons. Music aside, its ability to make audiences empathize with a courtesan and weep over her failings is something outrageous for the times.  Verdi was going against social norms and challenging them. We melted into the surroundings of our box seats in this timeless teatro and were swallowed up by the music and ambiance.  We floated home on Verdi’s notes and drifted into a peaceful sleep.

Not only is Palermo a city of cathedrals, full of interesting icons and exquisite art, but surroundings the island are white sandy beaches and turquoise sea, highlighted by lush green mountains and rocky coastal hikes. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean with a total coast length of nearly 1400km. It has a diverse history, unique culture, and huge amount of both historic and natural attractions to explore.

We embarked on an expedition to the eastern coast of Sicily. In the remote coastal towns, perched high up in the mountains, only small vans are able to climb the winding narrow roads. Perched atop the craggy cliffs is the village of Caselmola.  Views from the castle and church were spectacular of the coast, mountains and steep countryside. Winding our way through the tinny cobblestone streets we stopped at Cafe Pierde Cat Sicilian Bistro.  The tiny place quickly offered to make us vegan renditions of Sicilian specialties.

Getting lost further in the maze of alleys, leaving tourists far behind, I said Hi to the local postman delivering his mail.  From up above on a 3rd story balcony I heard a frail voice say basically, “Good morning postman.  How are you?  Tomorrow I will need a stamp.”   He replied cheerfully, “No problem.”   Ahh.   Mindful and without haste. The good old days still are alive and well in Caselmola!

More serpentine switchbacks found us in the village of Messima. Ancient alleyways, cathedrals, castles, cafes, all hanging on the side of a mountain, overlooking the sea far below. 

On one of our adventures around the island we decided to drop in on ‘The Godfather’.  He was busy, but we found out the history of the Sicilian Mafia or as called here Cosa Nostra.  In English, “Cosa Nostra” means “Our Thing,” which is ironic considering its now vast reach through the United States and beyond. Early in the 19th century, Cosa Nostra was created in a surprisingly simple grab for power. This was a time of the Gabellotto – entrepreneurs who leased farm lands from aristocrats at the time.  They would hire guards that would both protect the property and have control over the working farmers.  These aristocrats would constantly be in the debt to the Gabellotto for rent and taxes. This would lead to the loss of their properties entirely, and the Gabellotto became an undeniable power on the island.

Now with a foothold in Sicily, the Mafia here would rise to power. They would begin the practice of exchanging both favors and votes, and soon politics and the Mafia were bedfellows (much as they still are today). When Mussolini clamped down on the Mafia in WWII many gang leaders fled to the U. S. For the Mafia’s help in overthrowing the Nazi’s from Italy, many Cosa Nostra bosses were allowed to remain in power. They made up for lost time by taking as much as they could, as quickly as they could!  Lucky Luciano’s quote sums up their group’s ‘vision’ statement: “There’s no such thing as good money or bad money. There’s just money.”

In 1957 the bosses from Sicily and America met to work out the details of a new drug trafficking alliance. In the 1970s, the Corleonesi family (led by Boss Toto Riina) made a grab for power.  During this bloodbath Mafiosi’s were killed along with judges, police and politicians.  Two magistrates held their ground and indicted 450 Mafiosi (which would include the Godfather Toto Riina). Many went to jail but amazingly bosses are still found in hiding, on this small island, 45 years later!  They ‘drained the swamp’ but unfortunately, but not surprisingly, for their effort these 2 judges were assassinated in 1992.  They are regarded as Italian heroes to this day. Although this crimped their style, the Mafia is still alive and well in Italy and the U.S.  Some things just never die.

Located just outside the Palermo town is Monte Pellegrino which houses the shrine of the patron of Palermo – Santa Rosalia.  The story goes that Sister Rosalia chose to give up her worldly possessions and decided to embrace the path of religion and solitude up in these mountains of Palermo. She died unnoticed. Palermo was affected by a plague which was resulting in deaths of many citizens and prayers to their then saints and patrons went unheard. One day a shepherd grazing in the hills of Palermo saw a vision of a lady who told him that her remains lie in a cave in the mountain and she could help relieve Palermo of the plague. The shepherd and Head Priests led a procession of the bones of Santa Rosalia and the plague subsided. As a gratitude the people of Palermo declared her as their patron saint and built this lovely shrine over the cave. Perched at the top of a steep incline with amazing sea and Palermo views. After paying your respects remember to pick up a little Santa Rosalia souvenir or action figure for the kiddies back home.

Many vibrant beaches to the northwest of Palermo lured us out of the city to explore the quaint coastal regions.  Easy bus access insured an enjoyable day of surf, sand and of course, more tasty cuisine of Eataly!

And so it goes…………………………………..Next off to Crete in search of the ancient Minoan civilization.   Until then Keep Laughing, Keep Living Life to the Fullest, and remember to live deeper!  We are glad you stopped by. We are all hoping that soon we may all be out exploring the planet freely once again! Take care!

Love, Light & Laughter, 

xo  Nancy & Joseph