Malaysia’s ‘Pearl of the Orient’ carries a natural beauty and cultural splendor like no other place. Its name comes from the Malay translation of betel nut – ‘Pinang’. Every year, thousands of visitors come here to experience the unique cultural heritage and scenery. It is also a very cosmopolitan city, perhaps the second busiest in the country after Kuala Lumpur. Penang earned its name because of its important location among the sea trade route. Penang is a large and colorful island off the N.W. coast of Malaysia; shaped by its diverse culture, heritage and world-famous cuisine.

Penang’s history was officially recorded when the Sultan of Kedah ceded the state to Francis Light of the British East India Company in 1786. In exchange, the Sultan was promised British military protection from the Siamese by the crafty Light who had, in fact, no such power. When the Siamese invaded, there was no help rendered to the Sultan. He attempted to retake Penang back in 1790. The attack was unsuccessful and Penang continued to remain under British control with an additional strip of mainland added in 1800. The Sultan was paid 10,000 Spanish Dollars per annum in return. Through the decades, Penang flourished as a center for trade of tea, spices, china and cloth. It remained under British rule until it became part of Malaysia in 1957.

While the population is multi-racial, the culture here seems to have adopted a permanent a Chinese tinge. It is not unusual to find Malays and Indians being able to speak the Hokkien language alongside the largely Chinese population (65 percent) of Penang.  The rich cultural tapestry highlights working Indian temples next to Chinese temples, Christian Churches next to Muslim mosques.  Residents are used to living and working happily side by side with people of all religions and creeds.   Penang is a living example of how society can focus on similarities in the midst of diversity. This has many benefits.  We have never experienced a place with so many official holidays.  Take a calendar of Malaysian National holidays and add the holidays of all the major religions and it is holiday heaven! 

The primary benefit of this cultural mix is the amazing variety of food available.  Penang is a cultural and culinary heaven all rolled into one. Eating out is a very popular past time and Penang’s hawker stalls are legendary among Malaysians for their excellent food and lively atmosphere. For a change, we went to a Mexican Restaurant, Holy Guacamole; owned by a Chinese, with a Muslim cook and a Sikh waiter, serving a Canuck, an Indonesian and a couple of hungry white Hawaiian pineapples! The next table was full of hungry Indians.  The diversity is nonstop.

Penang consists of a 285 sq. km island connected via a 13 km bridge to an additional 760 sq. km of mainland, referred to as Seberang Perai. Commercial and administrative activity is concentrated in the capital of Georgetown, located on the northeast tip of the island. Temples and other historical sites are scattered in many places and the northern areas hides some picturesque beaches.

Today, Penang is fast, furious and alive with culture and people. Though the number of visitors may have lessened since its duty-free status was taken over by Langkawi, the island state is currently undergoing a revival among visitors through tourism efforts by its people and the Government to return it to its glory days.  Walking the backstreets of Georgetown, through all the different cultural enclaves like Chinatown and Little India, is like strolling through a museum or art gallery.  Unique street art is at every bend. While some tropical areas in the world have distinct dry and rainy seasons, predicting weather in Penang is as impossible as predicting which direction a Penang motorcyclist will drive on a one way street.

We come here for 3 reasons: to reconnect with old friends, do business and to EAT!  This is an international foodie’s paradise, boasting tasty food from around the world. Meeting friends in a small ethnic hawker’s roadside stall or a swanky restaurant along the coast or in one of the many healthy vegan or vegetarian cafes is what it is all about.

Our Chinese friends and fellow crazy travelers, Clare and Boon, have kindly shared this cultural richness with us on many of our visits.  We have experienced Chinese, Indian Hindu, Muslim and Malay cultural holidays together.  Chinese Nine Emperor Gods Festival Celebration, Indian Diwali and Thaipusan, Muslim Ramadan and Hari Raya Haji and Christian Christmas and New Year’s, to name a few.

 The Malaysian Tourism council has also started restoring and highlighting the history of Penang and Georgetown with Cultural festivals, parades, dancing, music and the Arts.  There seems to be an interesting, unique event taking place every week.

We met a family along Gurney Drive.  They were just returning from shopping for their Eid al Fitr celebration.  Before we knew it we were winding our way through the back streets of Georgetown, looking for the family home.  We were welcomed warmly and joined the extended Muslim family to a large feast featuring many vegetarian curries and vegetables prepared especially for us. 

Hari Raya Haji is the local Malaysian name for the Muslim holiday of Eid al Adha, “the Feast of Sacrifice”.  It is also called “Hari Raya Korban.”  At Eid al-Adha, many Muslims make a special effort to pray and listen to a sermon at a mosque. They also wear new clothes, visit family members and friends and may symbolically sacrifice an animal in an act known as qurbani. This represents the animal that Ibrahim sacrificed in the place of his son.  Check online or just listen for the music and dancing; following your ear will lead to a fascinating cultural event around the corner.

Joseph first went to Penang in 1961 and I in 1986. So many changes.  Penang has literally grown Up – with a record number of high rises vying for the best ocean view.  But unlike many places the rich heritage remains. We started going to Penang together in the beginning of our Nomadic journey 23 years ago, and have circled back through here whenever possible.  We are never disappointed.  We have stayed in the old backpacker places along Love Lane and Muntri Street, medium priced places dotted around the island and recently have been treating ourselves to higher end hotels.  Though the fake Co vid plandemic changed the face of traveling forever with all its complications; the up side was great discounts and very few people out and about.  During this time we stayed in the Heritage Wing of the iconic old Eastern and Oriental Hotel.   A later visit we were upgraded to a charming ocean front room.  Just in from a strenuous overnight flight we asked for a Quiet room.  After showering we were shocked to hear a jackhammer shaking the ceiling above.  Couldn’t be!?  Not here at the E. & O.!  Long story short we were upgraded to the executive suite on the 12^th floor, with 180 degree ocean views.  In the classy living room awaited a bottle of fine red wine, free mini bar, while the bathroom featured an antique bathtub with a sweeping view of the ocean.  While in business Joseph has stayed in the Savoy in Paris, the Plaza in New York, The Beverly Hills Hotel and he was very impressed with this suite. A far cry from a dirt floor in a hut in Africa or a Yurt in western China, we slept like babies in our latest ‘home’!  

The Eastern & Oriental Hotel (popularly known as E&O Hotel) is a British colonial-style 5 star luxury hotel in George Town that was established in 1885 by the Sarkies Brothers. The sea-fronting hotel is known for its luxurious accommodation and restaurants, especially their Sunday oceanfront buffet.  At par with the Empress in Victoria, Raffles in Singapore, The Oriental in Bangkok, The Strand in Yangon, this piece of living history is a pleasure to stay in, or just enjoy high tea or fine dining, then stroll through the gardens or along the 900 ft. oceanfront lawn.  Sitting in an antique armchair in the heritage lobby, surrounded by photos of famous guests, authors and royalty, one has only to shut their eyes and imagine conversing with W. Somerset Maugham, Sir Noël Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Hermann Hesse, Charlie Chaplin, Douglas Fairbanks or Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei.  If these walls could speak!

And so it goes…………………………………..Next stunning Lake Toba in Sumatra.  A great place to be when the crazy world-wide lockdowns started!  Remember to keep questioning what you hear on the media.  The bigger the lie, the more often they tell it, the more people believe it!  Things are not what they seem.  Question. Research. Find out the truth yourself!  This is one thing traveling shows us.  Travel opens your eyes.  Be grateful your mind has opened. Thanks for stopping by. We love getting your emails and news!  Take care and keep in touch!

Love, Light & Laughter, 

xoxoox  Nancy & Joseph