“Qué pasa?” We knew we were back in South America. Santiago is a vibrant, lively, colorful city — pulsing with its own Latino beat. Unknowingly, we booked a room in one of several supposed luxury high-rises right downtown. We jumped into local life in Santiago with both feet.

Each apartment is privately owned. You are given an address and dropped off in front of a massive building. Once inside, it is bedlam as they try to figure out how to contact the owner and let you into your new apartment for the week. The first place was not as described, so we held out for a nicer one in an adjacent tower. The only problem was that the elevators only worked on certain days and during certain hours, and soon you were living in the middle of a puzzle with no solution. Oh, and the water was off for maintenance on Tuesdays. And, and, and. But the location was great, and living with the locals was a fun and lively experience.

We frequented the many downtown markets and enjoyed the plethora of fresh vegetables from shops and street vendors. Being from the tropics, we mainlined delicious, mouth-watering seasonal fruits such as cherries, apricots, blueberries, and grapes. Lucky for us, those very grapes were also turned into delicious, inexpensive Chilean wines, which we bought at the corner grocery store and enjoyed with every meal. Living la vida loca!

A traditional South American city, Santiago has lovely parks, tree-lined avenues, cathedrals, and town squares. Street entertainers were out in droves, adding to the festive spirit. We took a funicular up to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal Park, overlooking the city. The Andes were visible in the distance on a clear day. Droves of locals were strolling the many paths to viewpoints or taking selfies with the giant statue of the Virgin Mary. We also took a day trip into the mountains, up to Cajón del Maipo. It was a spectacular day full of mountain scenery, wine tasting, and hiking along a magnificent turquoise lake.

Unfortunately, not all is well in Chile’s capital. Petty theft, scamming, and pickpocketing are common, and we had to re-engage our street smarts real fast. Scams seemed to be everywhere, and we even rented a place for a couple of nights that didn’t exist. Luckily, Booking.com refunded our deposit, but standing on the street at night with our suitcases in front of an empty warehouse was not ideal. A compassionate local helped call us a taxi, and we found a hotel next to the train station before beginning our adventure south toward the sub-Antarctic, a mere 2,500 km away!

One of the first things a visitor notices in Santiago is the appalling amount of graffiti — everywhere. Residents say it began during the civil unrest of 1957, when public transportation costs were increased. A similar scenario played out again when metro prices rose in 2019. These were difficult times for everyone, and to show their anger at the authorities, people took to the streets with placards and cans of spray paint. They covered every blank space with anti-government slogans — even the sides of historic buildings and cathedrals.

It was kind of like a son defying his father by tattooing his own face. Maybe it made a point at the time, but then he has to live with the ugly consequences. Almost 70 years later, people still keep finding — and rationalizing — reasons to graffiti the city, dirtying their nest even further.

We took a lovely day trip to the sea, to colorful Valparaíso, where they decided to cover the ugly graffiti with colorful artwork instead. Brightly painted houses radiate up the narrow streets from the ship-filled harbor and sandy beaches. Exposed fences, gates, and walls are covered with vividly painted murals, historical scenes, and fun-filled images of everything under the sun. What a welcome, uplifting change. Street art vs. vandalism. Turning trash into treasure. Amazing what humanity can accomplish with a simple shift in consciousness. And therein lies the hope for the future.

Love, Light & Laughter, 

xo  Nancy & Joseph

TRAVEL NOTES:

Casual greeting: “Wena”, “Holi,”, “Qué pasa?”

Hotels:  Anywhere
Go to Agoda.com or Booking.com or Google.com compare prices and special deals.  We usually can find an offer for 75% off discount and away we go! Booking ahead has advantages like lower prices and availability but it also limits your spontaneity.  I remember in Asam, finding a quiet little room with a good view in the Carolina Mountains.  We woke up and decided to enjoy the view another couple days.  That day, the train we were supposed to catch was attacked by insurgents with machine guns.  Eight people killed.  And we didn’t even know there was a conflict.  Spontaneity really pays off sometimes!  

VIP Apartments and – Spa Apartments:
Great location – right downtown.  The owners were helpful, the apartments pleasant, but they were fighting an uphill battle.  This once upscale condominium building has year by year fallen apart.  Now the water goes out for a day a week and the elevators break down regularly.  When you are on the 15^th floor this is a BIG problem!  We had to leave the night before we flew out because the elevator was down again and we were afraid of being stuck and not able to reach our taxi to the airport.  Too bad.

Viator tours:  This company is easy to use.  You can book online up until the day before.  Cancellation 24 hours ahead.  A good choice for a reasonably priced day trip around your area.  That being said they forgot to pick us up one morning!

City Express Santiago Aeropuerto

Address: Av. Américo Vespucio Oriente 1295, 8340422 Santiago, Chile

Phone: +56225897900

Great, clean, modern, helpful staff.  A big problem was that their automated wake-up call machine didn’t work and we barely made it to the FREE airport shuttle!  I hope that they fix this big problem

Chile Travel Ideas:

I would suggest you fly direct as possible to Santiago
Visit Santiago
Fly to Easter Island for a week
Figure out best fishing spots and visit those areas too!
Fly to Puerto Natales – spend a day or two
Bariloche Argentina – through Cruce Andino is spectacular (bus – boat-bus boat, etc) to Puerto Varas|
Take the bus to Torres del Paine Park
Get dropped off and arrange pick up with the hotel you choose – Rio Serrano area is good – Real ranch experience – great – Vita al Paine – ( downstairs room)  Next door Murano?? has radiators – a big plus
Stay in Park 3-4 nights
Go to Glacier Boat trip ( must walk 3 km one way)
Take Viator – full day Torres del Paine from Park Admin Office pick up – through Park and back to Puerto Natales ($65pp)
Fly from Puerto Montt (25 km from Puerto Natales) to Punta Arenas
Take the Viator (online)   King Penguin Tour full day (10 hr)
Walk around downtown one day
Fly Back to Santiango via JetSmart or Jetset??

Hope this helps.  You should choose your own hotels and comfort via Booking or Agoda