Stark, raw, daunting, Patagonia epitomizes rugged beauty. Only the strong survive in this harsh land. Even in the summer, the bitter winds of winter linger. Once, while hiking to a waterfall, I came around a corner and the wind blew me over. Not exactly a gentle balmy, tropical breeze! On our way south, we talked to a couple of hikers returning from southern Patagonia. In the 10 days they were hiking and touring, they only saw the sun once. Instead, they were greeted with pelting rain, fog, and gusty winds. The scenery that draws many a traveler was totally obscured behind dense clouds. Feeling a bit apprehensive, we remembered we were from Hawaii and usually have good luck with the weather. Hawaiian sunshine follows us. Thank goodness our streak of luck prevailed, and we enjoyed two weeks of beautiful, unseasonably clear and sunny weather.

We flew from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. From there, we caught a 3-hour bus ride into Torres del Paine National Park. Actually, just a few blocks outside the park, with a straight-on view of the magnificent peaks, was Vista al Paine – Refugio de Aventura, our home for the next four days. With hotels within the park boundaries running over $500 a night, we were very pleased with our choice. The reception by Oscar was warm, but the main kitchen and living room were cool. The bedrooms were without heat, but there were plenty of warm blankets. Icebox time! I set about practicing my fire-making skills, and soon the cabin was warm and toasty.

The views of the sun rising and setting on the mountains were nothing less than spectacular. Every morning out our window, we would watch Nature’s dramatic show as colors danced on the mountain peaks. There were a couple of free-range horses that liked to hang around the lodge seeking reprieve from the wind, and one morning when I opened the curtains I saw only white. Half asleep, I thought there had been a blizzard overnight and we were snowed in! Noooooo! Imagine how relieved I was when I fully woke up and realized it was only the big white butt of one of the horses pressed up against the glass!

Days were spent exploring, hiking, observing the unique wildlife, and soaking in the magic of Patagonia. One full day we explored Grey Glacier. A several-mile hike through the forest brought us to our boat. From there we cruised down the lake to the stunning glacier. Massive chunks of blue ice formed the front of the glacier, while unassuming small icebergs floated by.

We joined a small private tour of highlights of the region on our way to Puerto Natales. Another Hawaiian sunny day made the turquoise lakes and roaring waterfalls look surreal. Wild ostriches, alpacas, horses, and flocks of birds dotted the landscape. We had to keep pinching ourselves to make sure we weren’t dreaming. Timeless other-worldly Patagonia has that effect.

Love, Light & Laughter, 

xo  Nancy & Joseph

TRAVEL NOTES:

Hola! And one kiss: Between friends, or even when being informally introduced to a stranger, it’s common to give one kiss on the right cheek.

Torres del Paine:
Vista al Paine – Refugio de Aventura
Vista al Paine – Refugio de Aventura Villa Río Serrano Lote Ar2, Torres del Paine National Park, Torres Del Paine, Chile, 0610000 +56 9 5168 8447

An amazing true Patagonian experience. Located next to the National Park – entrance, this small 4 room lodge provides unbelievable views of the magnificent surrounding mountains.  Juan Pablo helped so much to figure out park logistics prior to arrival and Oscar welcomes you warmly and helps with any needs or transportation.  The warm wooden kitchen/living room has a cherished wood burning stove to heat this room (bedrooms are cold but lots of blankets.) – an authentic Torres del Paine place to stay.  Hotels in the Park are expensive, (starting at $500 a night) so this Lodge is a discount, especially on Agoda.com

We took the below bus to the entrance of the park.  From there, there is NO transportation.  You have to arrange a pick-up with your hotel or hostal.  The bus was a little frustrating because we flew by beautiful viewpoints without being able to stop or take photos.  On the way back our hotel took us once again to the park entrance (there are several) where we had arranged pick-up by our small van tour back to town.  This was a great arrangement as we could stop and enjoy the magnificent scenery, take photos and hike to waterfalls, etc.  It only worked because we travel light and our small bags fit in the back of the van. 

You can take the bus directly to the entrance to the Park but then you are on your own. Hosteria Las Torres have vans which will meet you at the entrance. Then the vans take you wherever you want based on the excursion that you choose. Pehoe is in the center of the park but I know nothing about it. Hosteria was very nice-food was excellent. Breakfast was included and very filling (If you can, stop in Puerto Natales and buy lunch food and juices and wine(YUM) and that will save you $20 for the box lunch that the hosteria charges.

Several bus companies run daily services to the Torres del Paine, at least during the high summer season. Terminal Rodoviario, Estacion de Autobuses or simply bus terminal in Puerto Natales is located on Avenida Espana 1455 

From the area next to the Laguna Azul Nursery it is possible to get the best view of Torres del Paine without trekking.

Buses run on the hour from 7am – every 2 hours in late afternoon,
$11pp