The Sri Meenakasi Temple in Madurai, designed in 1560, is a colorful collection of Dravidian architecture with 12 ‘gopurams’ or towers within a walled 6 hectare complex. With history dating back over 2000 years, when Madurai was a Pandyan capitol, this is one of the truly working temples in India and it is possible to take a step back in time as temple priests perform incantations and hundreds of Hindu devotees line up for blessings amid flowers, incense and wise old temple elephants.

The impressive and moving Gandhi Memorial Museum on the outskirts of town, gives a detailed account of India’s struggle for independence from 1757 to 1947. “Right against Might.” Although the British did a lot to establish infrastructure in India, as acknowledged by the citizens who are often proud of their British history, the English translations graphically outline the atrocities done by the British under their rule. Gandhi’s commendable nonviolence movement stated that “Our quarrel is not with the British. We fight their imperialism.” “In my opinion, non cooperation with evil is as much a deity as is cooperation with good.” Gandhi led his country to freedom through a non violent revolution, proving to the world that passive resistance IS effective. Madurai is where Gandhi first took up wearing the ‘dhoti’ (long loincloth) in 1921 and the bloodstained dhoti he was wearing when assassinated in 1948 is on display.

A calm in the midst of the transportation storm in Trichy was provided in both the hill top Rock Fort Temple (437 stone cut steps leading up makes for a good work out & a rewarding 360 degree view) and the 11th century Sri Ramanathaswamy Temple. Flashing saris, intricately carved pillars, colorfully painted Dravidian towers, dancing elephants, rooftops at sunset, wild eyed ‘sadus’ (eccentric holy men), fresh flower adornments, potent incense, bare-chested temple priests with their long hair piled atop their heads blessing Hindu pilgrims, intricate statues of deities, beggars with leprosy or deformed limbs; it has it all. Another vibrant example of a living, breathing Indian temple, such as if one could be transported back to the ancient working pyramids of Egypt. Thankfully some things in India remain unchanged, even in the current onslaught of modernization. The mazelike bazaar near the Rock Fort Temple is entertaining to poke through, while staying in the ‘junction area’ is a termite hill of activity, with insufferable bus horns blaring and black exhaust billowing, a recommended place in which to do a laboratory test on the efficacy of ear plugs. A young Hindu woman asked if we found traveling in India uncomfortable at times. When we responded, “Yes” she told us she felt the same, as India is often just as uncomfortable for Indians. We parted agreeing that the unique sights that a person experiences in India makes the effort worthwhile.

The effects of Sri Aurobindo and his devotees radiate throughout Puducherry and provide areas of refreshing infrastructure in an otherwise typical Tamil Nadu city. The eastern side of town between the canal and the meandering promenade along the ocean is particularly enjoyable, actually quiet is the key word. Tree lined streets of this old French Quarter hide many exclusive boutiques, restaurants and hotels. Near the pungent canal is the small Muslim quarter and it was there that we found a 4th floor rooftop oasis. With the cool ocean breezes, shade of the thatched gazebo, the small garden and the friendliness of the family we quickly settled in and after 2 days our earplugs started to block out the daybreak call to prayer from the surrounding mosques. While we cooked our meals down in their kitchen we started discussing our different ideas on food and health and before we left Arifa, the wife, had been vegetarian for over 1 week. This was extremely brave in a totally meat eating Islamic household and we encouraged Ilyas to support his wife’s journey towards better health and less bulk under the burka. Having spent the last 30 years in Paris they moved back to India to provide a better education for their 4 children in local private schools; building the guesthouse up 2 stories from the original family home.

I spent hours visiting different homeopathic and Ayurvedic shops and clinics in Puducherry learning more about these ancient Indian healing forms. Fascinating to think how much these healers knew thousands of years ago while our “modern medicine” was nothing to speak of and even slightly archaic at the turn of the 20th century. One homeopathic doctor, who studied the required 5 1/2 years and had been practicing for over 10 years talked to me for over an hour, then sold me a remedy worth 25 cents. Amazing. In America a consultation would be $50 and each remedy $6-8. Thank goodness Ayurvedic and Homeopathic clinics abound in India because last years shoe store is now a “Modern Pharmacy” and without any formal training the proprietor can dish you any chemical prescription drug you desire for one fiftieth the price back home. It pays to research what you want to purchase when traveling and check for credentials hanging on their shingle out front. Sad that the change in lifestyles to western diets has once again brought the rise of modern non communicable, lifestyle self induced diseases with them (heart disease, high blood pressure, immune disorders, cancer, etc.). Thirty percent of all Indians now have diabetes – a condition unheard of even 10 years ago. These once healthy, strong mainly vegetarians are getting fat and sick as their budgets allow. Same story all over the world – emulate the west and people in ‘developing’ countries get more than chic clothes and good music!More than they bargained for!

Besides Bon Appetite Organic Shop, Nilgiris Supermarket, and various restaurants (including a good Pizza place in the French Quarter), one highlight of Puducherry is Energy Home. This totally eclectic vegan restaurant and herbal remedy shop was established by an Ayurvedic doctor who was spurred down his path of health by a life threatening illness almost 30 years ago. Besides tasty but very different health drinks and safe raw food entrees this was a great place to meet people as eccentric as the shop. One day we met a Scandinavian mother who had been traveling through with her husband and simply stopped, and have now been living in Tiruvanamalai with their 2 children for over 4 years. We then met a high powered Dutch woman whose fiancé and love of her life, was arriving the next day, only 3 days before they were to be married; by a temple priest in a wild marriage ‘puja’ ceremony. Not so unusual? Add the fact that he had never traveled outside of Europe before, let alone experienced the chaos or current heat and humidity of India. Unless it is a powerful puja it may well be one of the shortest marriages to date. Immediately following we also met Sukanya, a 28 year old psychologist with her own practice. She was busily finishing chores for her upcoming marriage. As we talked for over an hour she excitedly explained the long, undeviating procedure followed for arranged marriages in India. Usually the word is put out to family, friends, neighbors and at social functions such as weddings, that the bride or groom-to-be is available. No suitable candidates? Then a village or professional matchmaker agency is hired. Being a modern woman, Sukanya helped her parents and the agency scour the thousands of ads gracing the internet. A year later a short list of about 100 ‘possibilities” were selected and the parents rushed off to the astrologer. This being the key step in the process, candidates were scratched off the list left and right because their astrological numbers didn’t match. The shorter list of properly aligned grooms was returned to the anxious family, along with the auspicious date for the wedding (accompanied with a hefty bill for these services). Contacting the parents of the potential partners and eliminating mismatches is the next long arduous task of the parents. Once the final list is secured the bargaining begins. With a girl comes her gold and a dowry. Although officials often say that this burden of a dowry is no longer required or legal – the bargaining includes the groom’s family asking for a new motor cycle, land, money for a new bathroom, a car, etc to cinch the deal. Having many girl babies can set a family up for a life of hardship, while the parents conscientiously squirrel away the dowry money. Scandals have hit the papers over the last decade explaining how girl babies often died ‘unexpectedly’ or how in some villages new brides died suspiciously, once the coveted dowry was tucked securely into the pockets of the groom’s family. Legislation has forbidden mandatory dowries and Sukanya proudly announced that her fiancé’s family didn’t require a dowry, endearing her new in-laws to her.

Photos were exchanged, but they chose to skip the often compulsory final inspection, where the in-laws to be closely check out the ‘goods’ of the potential bride including teeth, skin condition, etc. Whew!! Patience comes to mind and it also explains why an Indian wedding is such a major event, and possibly why multiple marriages are strongly discouraged. Now the plans for the marriage must be negotiated, attendance lists and menus drawn up, the red bridal sari purchased (often woven with gold threads), and on and on and on. This is when we met Sukanya, in the middle of final preparations. Marriage is sacred to most Indians and considered to last beyond death. As such weddings are times of great feasting, expense and celebration. In most Hindu temple ceremonies the bride and groom exchange garlands and promises before they circle around a fire 7 times, finalizing the vow. Thus launching a life of happiness or quiet resignation.

Sukanya’s fiancé was flying in from Colorado, where he is getting his Engineering PhD in Boulder. He had chosen to have his parents arrange a bride for him, even though he could have done his own searching amongst fellow students or within the Denver Indian community. She excitedly added that she will be flying back to America to join him for 2 years, before returning to Delhi to settle down. Her life has been completely mapped out by her parents (with her final approval). She thinks both love and arranged marriages have their place in modern India. She is totally sure that when she meets her husband the day of the wedding, the arrangement will be perfect and they will be happy and married forever and ever. There is simply no other way to perceive it. Certainly done under such ideal conditions and with the bride’s consent (they are even ‘sneaking’ a few emails back and forth) the chances look good. Maybe expectations are erased and as such disappointments are eliminated. What is – is. Accept it and learn to adapt. This marriage is not the case of the lecherous old businessman obtaining a young beautiful bride (and thus increasing the status in society of the girl and her family). The chance of success for arranged marriages is much higher than with love marriages in our culture – with over 50% ending in divorce. Sukaya invited us to the wedding in her home in southern Tamil Nadu, but when we told her we were heading north, she promised to send a photo via email. “Love was in the air” of Energy Home that day!

Almost all Hindu marriages, even today, are arranged and these marriages occur mainly between members of the same caste. Only a handful of young people make “love marriages” across caste lines and they can still suffer serious social consequences. In this way the caste system is perpetuated, along with the belief that if a person adheres rigidly to the rules of their caste, they will reincarnate up into a higher caste system next time around. The best way to control people is to get them to do it to each other. The caste system was created over 3000 years ago when Aryan speaking nomadic tribes migrated from the north into India. Around 200 BC the Aryan priests proclaimed themselves earthly gods or ‘Brahmans’, next down were the ‘Kshantriyas’ or warriors. Then came the ‘Vaisyas’ the farmers and merchants. The ‘Sudras’ were laborers, born to be servants to the other three castes. Far lower and in fact without a caste were the ‘Untouchables’ (renamed ‘children of God’ by Gandhi), limited to doing the most menial and unappealing tasks. These first Untouchables were the Dravidians, the aboriginal inhabitants of India, who had a highly evolved culture in S. India. To these Untouchable ranks of Dravidians, creators of the temples of Madurai, were added social pariahs or religious outcasts, expelled by the Brahman priests. Created by the priests, the caste system became Hindu law, rendered secure by claiming its origin of Divine revelation. Who is going to mess with the Divine and be sentenced to eternal suffering or chance reincarnation as a cockroach? Splat! Socially the caste system regulates everything in India and although it was legally abolished many years ago, social change comes slow with such chains of control. That is unless you happen to be a male descendant of one of those clever Brahman priests, who happen to like the current system. Our friend was taking care of a house for a couple, a deaf mute Caucasian French woman married to an Untouchable Tamil man. Life was made so difficult for them in the local Tamil Nadu village that they are considering not returning to India. But will life be any easier for this uneducated Indian man in France? Who can point a finger? Socioeconomic caste systems and racism permeate every culture on earth. He who controls the gold controls the future. The human race is such a strange organism.

Considering the complexity of humanity and adding a spiritual foundation, the international community of Auroville was envisioned by spiritual guru Sri Aurobindo and Mother. “An experiment in international living where people could live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, politics and nationalities. A place where all human beings of goodwill, sincere in their aspiration, could live freely as citizens of the world…” In 1968 representatives of 128 nations poured soil from their lands into an urn to symbolize universal oneness. Today over 2000 ‘citizens’ (1200 Tamil Nadus and 800 representing 40 other countries) live side by side in 90 different communities – each emphasizing different arts, crafts, renewable energy, healing or cottage industries. As westerners with money and advanced education come in and build homes (which become communal property) they in turn volunteer to help run Auroville and the less educated Tamil Nadu residents are often ‘managed’ by these outsiders, and resentment exists. Humanity struggling at yet another level. My heart soars at the concept of Auroville and if they are able to keep their focus this innovative 20 square km creation has the potential to be a model on which to rebuild society, an eye in the midst of the storm. In the center of this resurrected desert community, surrounded by millions of planted trees forming the ‘green belt’ lies the Matrimandir – “the soul of Auroville”. This 10 storey high golden sphere houses a spiritual treasure, a silent inner chamber built out of white marble with 12 pillars spaced around the circular room (very Free Masonic). The floor is covered with white carpeting and pillows and the lights dimmed. Sunlight from above shines a beam through the darkness down into the world’s largest glass crystal ball, at the center 50 feet below. It is a remarkable almost indescribable experience to meditate in this temple and thanks to our good friend Geri from Hawaii we were able to feel and connect to the “Oneness” referred to in all the great teachings through the ages.

Auroville is not a tourist attraction and only through perseverance is one able to glimpse what this community is all about – see below. Besides guesthouses, an informative visitor center and interesting shops the highlights of the community are the tasty vegetarian meals, featuring organic home grown lettuce salads of all types. Joseph went off with Prekash, to download mountains of programs and e-texts onto his computer to use at his little school for teaching English to Tamil Nadu children, while I spent the night catching up with my dear girlfriend. But not before taking a swim and having just one more delicious vegan salad. Sitting in the shade of the trees, listening to the ocean waves at Reppo Beach and visiting with Geri once again, Hooray, it was hard to believe that we were all in India; a little bubble of Auros in the fast flowing rapids of the river called Mother India.

After almost 2 weeks in Puducherry we didn’t make it any further than Mamallapuram, 2 hours up the coastal road. Warned that it would be hot this time of year we had to agree, that is until we took a walk down to the end of the beach. There Joseph found us a room in a new, wonderful oceanfront guesthouse, second story with balcony, capturing every breeze possible. If we had remained in the little backstreet place from the first night we probably would have moved on but when we took our laptops to the rooftop, only to discover that we picked free wi-fi from the neighboring GRT Temple Bay Resort ($150-$500/night) we knew that it would be hard to pry us loose from this gem of a place (same beach, great room, more privacy and quiet for only $12/ night). We went for a swim every morning, took a walk on the beach, watched as fishermen sailed out to sea or pulled in massive shore nets, walked to town for fruits and vegetables and cooked in the little kitchen each night. Rooftop dining by candlelight and the light of the large yellow full moon on the water hold a lasting memory.

Just by chance we called our friend Geri still back in Auroville to say “Guess what? We are still here.” We convinced her to join us for a night on her way flying back to Turkey and just as we finished dinner a spectacular fireworks display exploded next door, so close it seemed as if we were inside the show. Walks down the beach, stopping into the shops or watching the tap tapping of the cities famous stone carvers, looking at the old Shore Temple, or talking with and receiving blessings from the friendly devotees of the “Oneness” community in our guesthouse were highlights. With one final South Indian Masala Dosai under her belt she headed to the airport in Chennai.

We talked daily with Gopi, the 25 year old manager/cleaner of our 6 unit hotel and we became good friends. He worked hard 24/7 for 2500r ($60 a month). He was impressive for his age and never asked us for anything, he just sincerely enjoyed our talks, answers to his questions and the opportunity to practice English. When Gopi said he hoped to work in the luxury resort next door, Joseph walked over and had a talk with the big boss and set up an interview. He arrived dressed his best the next day in a thread bare but spotless shirt and faded jeans, excited but looking nervous. Gopi is the son of one of the fishermen who’s boat was wiped out by the Tsunami in 2004 and they are very poor. Good thing Joseph followed his instincts and walked over to personally introduce him because the security guard wouldn’t even let him on the grounds. Then the manager sent them over to the personnel office where they tried to brush him off by saying, “Just submit a resume.” Gopi had never even heard of a resume. Instead Joseph, then the office manager helped him fill out the application. Supposed to check out at 12:00 we waited out on the balcony until Gopi popped up the stairs with the biggest smile on earth, outshining the Shiva midday sun. He had the new job and would get 5000r – double his current salary and would only have to work 10-12 hours a day! He was so excited he could hardly stand still. All we can do in life is try to help in whatever way presents itself. Good luck Gopi! With your positive attitude we know you will succeed and certainly be satisfied and happy.

Chennai, formerly Madras, is a busy coastal city that has attracted sailors, cloth merchants, and spice traders over the ages. From 2000 years ago Phoenician, Roman, Greek, Babylonian, Chinese and African traders sailed into this bustling port. Then came the Portuguese and the British, who decided to take over the place and overstay their welcome by 200 years or so. Chennai is hot and busy but there are many temples to check out, colorful markets, and we spent the day at the 100 acre wooded Theosophical Society Center along the river in Adyar; enjoying the quiet, seeing the former meditative areas and graves of Blavatsky, etc, viewing a small display of hand written or printed books dating back to 1490 and talking with some of the people running the place who were almost as old. May we all be doing something “from the heart” and enjoying life at 84!!

And so it goes…………………………………..Next exploring the seldom reached North Eastern states between Burma and Bhutan -Nagaland, Megalaya and Assam. Until next month let’s remember to “Be the Change We Wish to See!” We are glad you stopped by. Thanks for remembering us and keeping in touch. We Love hearing from you! Take care & Keep smiling.