We were in for yet another treat in Knysna, (which we had been pronouncing Krishna, like in India) as we met Candy, friend of a friend of a friend, and were warmly welcomed into her home and family.  With her active group of friends and teenagers we had a brie, hiked, beach combed and explored tidal pools by daylight and moonlight.

Slowly we worked our way along the coast, from one beautiful bay or beach to the next.  Plettenberg Bay is one such place to mention.  We parked near the Beacon Island Hotel for 3 nights, enjoying the beach and had a wonderful, romantic vegan Valentines Day dinner overlooking the ocean, thanks to the flexibility of the dynamic couple managing Indigos.  The lounge at the front of the hotel has absolutely the best view in the area with waves crashing in on three sides.  In fact one such wave crashed right through the windows a few years back.  The mighty power of the sea.  We had an absolutely lovely lunch and talk with 3 insightful ladies from J’Berg at Global Village.  This unique place highlights crafts from around the globe, all items we had seen as local artisans created them back in their country of origin.  Memories flooded back over our past 8 years of travels.  While in the area don’t forget to jump off the world’s highest bridge bungy jump at Bloukrans, guaranteed to wet your pants!!  We almost did just watching.  A sign posted said, “Fear is temporary, regret is forever.”  This is definitely facing fear.  Free jumps after age 60.  One guy jumped last year at 84 – crazy or courageous?
Jeffrey’s Bay is home of the ‘Perfect Wave’.  How could two Hawaiian beach lovers pass that by?  Wet suits mandatory we enjoyed the surf from the beach that is, not like our bathtub water at home.  The beauty of Port Alfred and the welcoming people caught us for a couple of days.  Straddling the Kowie River the white sand beaches go on and on and the old riverfront tells tales of shipping in days past.

It all started as we were sitting along Makleavena Beach with friends Bob & Kije on our beloved Big Island of Hawaii.  “You must look up our friends in South Africa!”  Modern technology allows for such communication and through emails we finally drove up to the quaint community of Kidds Beach.  What a wonderful pocket size place and what a great 4 days we spent in our own home along the river watching Sam the 6 ft heron stalk his next fish. We cooked Thai food together with Guy, Susan, girls and neighbors, walked the beach daily and visited the Kidds Beach School where Joseph spoke to the enthusiastic staff about the importance of e-text in our modern world.  It was heart warming to see such a well run school, with black and white students learning side by side.  The future of South Africa is in the hands of this younger generations.  A flat tire while there allowed us to meet Paul, an ex-army survival trainer who has hiked for months at a stretch up the western coast with only the clothes on his back, surviving on what Nature provides.  He has driven his camper extensively around southern Africa and had some welcome advice for back road travel.

After a look around East London we headed north, passing vast townships huddled on the hills.  We noticed several funerals in our travels, faces painted white, crowds gathered to bury their dead under the enormous high intensity wires, the only place available to those with no money.  Even when passing on, these poor souls must squat.  Joseph spotted a small group of meerkats gazing out over the rural farming area with golden fields, scattered cattle, small lakes or dams and wide open blue skies, yet another face of South Africa.  Rural South Africa is reminiscent of East Africa with small towns, such as Jamestown, of mainly blacks with a few  Afrikaans farmers and white or Chinese shop owners thrown in.

As the potholes got bigger the mountains of Lesotho loomed on the horizon, beckoning us on.  We stopped at a farm in the middle of nowhere, asking if we could park for the night.  As is the case most farms are enormous tracts of land homesteaded by Great Grandfather and now owned by one of the grandsons.  This splendid place with its original old stone farmhouse, windmills and outbuildings resonated with good times and hard times.  Joseph met a young local man and his family, a hired hand and his house maid wife (everyone has them) and was invited into their little sod/rock house.  The place was spic and span, with one son, two dogs, a cat and plenty chickens.  They were proud of the life they had in their little house on the prairie. 

When traveling we are intrigued by the new and different things we see.  As we slowly made our way up the coast we had been told to drive down to attractive Vlesssbaai.  Arriving at dusk we were surprised to find not just a subdivision gated but the whole blooming town was gated, with high electric wire fences like a prison.  Stunned, we continued down to the next community and camped for the night.  Totally self sufficient we are able to pull in along a beach or under a tree and spend the night.  The following morning we either stealth away or relax with our fruit salad before taking a long walk along the shore.  Feeling welcome at many spots we will often spend a second night.  Another option is to stop by a farm house and ask if we can park along their long driveway before leaving in the morning.  Even secluded, in the middle of thousands of acres of farmland, the owners tell us it is dangerous and at our own risk, “This is South Africa”.

Face Your Fears.  In theory this is easy, wrapped up in neat, tidy words rationalized by our minds.  Life is where we can see our true selves played out for all to see.  It is said that in every situation there are only two choices: to live in fear or in love.  After talking with countless South Africans we went through waves of fear about the trip we were taking.  “Only stay in caravan parks.  Don’t camp there – it’s dangerous, you will be robbed, raped, murdered.  Total fear.  When parked by the side of the road, even in broad daylight in the middle of a beautiful remote farmland area, there was a knock at the door.  A well intentioned older man told us we shouldn’t park in that spot for lunch or we will be robbed by the taxi people.  He then hurried off to double lock his little farm house door; shutting out the beautiful sunny world around him, hiding in the shadows of fear.  We felt sorry for him.  We were more afraid that we would catch his ‘fear fever’ than the potential taxi robbers who smiled and waved as they sped by, radio booming.

For sure, criminals are active here, as in many places, part of the 5% not so good crowd on earth.  Feeding, like a monster on this fear of violence is a trillion dollar security business.  Everyone is wired in.  What if tomorrow all people decided to live peacefully together?  There is no way this immense business would be allowed to stop.  Many South Africans agree that these acts of violence, instilling fear in residents, is organized by criminals with a bigger agenda.  Several have even suggested that in some cases whites are behind the black groups terrorizing city residential and farm areas country wide. 

Every town has on the outskirts it’s black township.  People live in squalor in small cement houses (coloreds) or tin shanties (blacks) while in glaring contrast the white town folk live in tree lined boulevards, many with a second luxurious beach home on the sea shores.  Short distance public transport is only provided so the black workers can get to and from work for the white folk in their homes or businesses.  How could there not be resentment? In the Drakensburg Mountains the rolling hillsides were dotted with small Zulu farms and family compounds with several huts or houses, a garden, a few animals and bouncing kids jumping around.  People were relaxed, smiling and friendly.  It seems a more natural way to live than being jammed into a man made maze of a township.  Better services, less anger.  Once again, education is the key to change, however long it takes.  “People are human beings produced by the society in which they live.  You encourage people by seeing good in them.” (Mandela) 

The white folk live in constant fear, fuelled by the shock/horror newspaper or television headlines of hideous crimes committed.  Making up for years of Apartaid, a terror campaign is in full swing.  White South Africans live behind tall razor wire topped walls, with security alarms and armed guards on call.  They are trapped inside electrified, barred windowed cages, the weight of fear heavy on their shoulders. 

The average white/Asian person in South Africa has a level of stress higher than normal.  This constant pressure is not healthy.  How do I know?  Because for the first time in our trip I slay paper tigers at times.  Just when I am starting to relax some well intentioned person does their level best to instill more fear in me.  Does this mean we are Mr. & Mrs. Magoo going along blindly?  No.  We have a car alarm and security cables.  We are realistic, street wise, and careful but would we be able to continue traveling the world if we shrouded ourselves in fear?  We have spent the last 8 years in every conceivable situation, including war zones, without incident.  In each scenario it is necessary to return to the only constant we have in our ever changing life – the peace and love we each can connect to inside ourselves, safe in the love.  It is here where we can stop worrying over what may happen to us in the future.  It is here, in the present moment, where clarity resides.  It is here where we can calm the negative chatter of our minds and put fear back into its dark cave.  If we indeed create our realities or attract what we fear, then this exercise is crucial.  Fear plagues us all.  We each need to honestly and quietly acknowledge our fears and face them, making changes as necessary.  These positive actions help raise the global consciousness.  The future of our world is in our hands.  We must each decide where we want to live – in fear or in love.  Slay our paper tigers once and for all.  Die but one death.  Take back the night!

South Africa is full of extraordinary people of all races who want things to work out.  They are sick of all the nonsense and turmoil.  The spirit of ‘ubuntu’ is alive.  We camped the full length of the coast (and inland) from Cape Town to Durban (Mozambique) without a single problem.  We only met people, of all colors, more than willing to help in any way possible.  What a great place!

And so it goes…………………………………..Next month a look at the superb South African National Parks from mountains to seashore and the unique, intriguing African animals that call this home.  Until then may we each face our fears, calming the negative, worrisome chatter of our minds.  Awareness is the first step.  Put fear back into its dark cave.  Thanks for joining us on our travels through Africa and through life.  Hope you are learning as much as we are.   Thanks for sharing our webpage around.  Keep in Touch and drop us a line when you get time.