As we descended from 8000 feet it gradually changed from thick clouds, to thin mist, to bright sunshine.  Choosing the perfect spring-like year round climate of Dhankuta we hopped off the bus.  After settling into a guesthouse with picturesque views over the surrounding mountains, we sat under a large plumeria tree enjoying fresh lychee with the locals.  There we met Thore, a professor of Political Science at the local college (grades 11 & 12).  Afterwards we bought vegetables and he invited us home to cook them.  One thing you quickly learn in Nepal is that everything is up and only takes ‘5’ minutes to reach – that is if you are a Sherpa in Ironman condition.  Realistically you are still climbing vertically 30 minutes to one hour later, wondering when the 5 minutes is over and you will reach your goal.  So it was up to Thore’s home.  But the walk through the old narrow streets, pine forests and rural villages was, as always, worth the effort.  Arriving at his house about an hour before dark we toured his small farm, the bio gas system and gazed across the valleys as we ate dinner with his welcoming daughter and wife.  Walking home in the dark we were guided by a full moon, stars and a chorus of frogs and crickets.  Returning the next day Joseph loaded books on the family computer and the following day he was invited to talk to an inquisitive class of 70 students at Dhankuta College.  As we became closer Thore shared with us that in the past 8 years of unrest in Nepal over 50,000 people have died in fighting with 50 people in this small town alone.  Being a proponent for change he was charged with unproven subversive activity towards the Monarchy and sent to the local jail for over a year.  Walking the streets of Dhankuta and witnessing the cordiality and respect with which Thore was greeted it is obvious this town has welcomed the much needed changes in Nepal. 

A Kingdom without a King.  The whole royal family was killed (the third time in history by relatives) only 5 years ago and this remaining monarch had existed under suspicious conditions.  The King sent packing, the Royal Palace will be turned into a museum and one of his recently discovered Swiss bank accounts returned to the people’s coffer.  With the current struggle between the Maoists and the Labor Party raging, Nepal has a long road ahead, weaning and adapting from centuries of Monarchy.  This change has the hopes of everyone soaring as the newly formed government vies for a balance between the two main factions.  A newly formed parliament consisting of businessmen, farmers, and a surprising 30% representation by the terribly suppressed women of Nepal, presses forward – the first leader quitting after only 1 month.  Economics devastated by political unrest will slowly recover and these poor folk will once again regain their power.  Change comes hard but once the growing pains have subsided it is hoped that this vibrant yet mellow country can grow and prosper.  As in so many areas we visit, only time will tell.

A highlight of our time in Dhankuta was the weekly Thursday market located in a tiny village several kilometers northeast of the town.  Again we sat under the shade of the trees eating fresh lychees and watching the pan play of color, textures and sounds from dozens of surrounding villages.  

Choosing a city half way to Chitwan we were surprised to jolt to a halt in the middle of nowhere and have the driver point down the direction of a dirt road.  We soon discovered that we were at the entrance to Koshi Tappu Wildlife Park, not the town of Koshi Tappu.  Well, we were here, why not have a look.  We hired a one-man powered ‘rickshaw truck’ for our bags and to jump on through puddles.  Down we headed on the muddy dirt trail leading to the wildfowl reserve.  We spent a fascinating afternoon back in villages hand made from dung and thatching.  Dung is an amazing building tool.  Used as fuel or plaster mixed with euchre mud, when dried it is durable and completely odor free. We sat in the shade with villagers anxiously posing for photos and even met a Grandma claiming to be 106 years old.  

Bus after bus zoomed by us, loaded to the gills, but lacking these Gills, and we realized that because we had lost track of time in the little villages we had probably missed any buses heading west.  We flagged down an express tourist bus loaded with Indian and Nepalese tourists.  Thinking it was worth the extra money not to be stranded in the middle of nowhere without lodging, we were happy to be speeding on our way.  All of a sudden the bus slowed down, pulled a U-turn and sped back where we had just come from 30 minutes ago.  We stopped for 45 minutes while they loaded 30,000 lbs of Cat Steven’s bananas  on the top.  Finally we started again, heavily loaded but the pockets of the drivers would certainly be fuller.  Delays, pit stops and who knows what put us into Chitwan at 3:30 am and the town was shut up tight.  We sat under an awning waiting for the town to wake up when 2 young guys from Italy were tossed off a bus from Katmandu.  Together we hired a car to Sauraha and fell fast asleep in our room on the river.

Chitwan means “heart of the jungle” and these steamy jungles were once ruled by Royal Bengal tigers, herds of wild elephants, one horned rhinos, crocodiles, dolphins and 43 other species of large mammals.  As villages encroach, many rhinos and some of the once 450 species of birds still exist, but sightings are rare with  impassable mud tracks and 30 ft high ‘elephant’ grass providing cover.  The dry, hot season drives whatever animals remain in Chitwan further into the dense, tangled forests.   Villagers in the forests still use jungle herbs and garlic to ward off malaria, a deterrent to all but the most hardy inhabitants.  Logged off in the 1950’s this became Chitwan National Park in 1970.  Hiring an elephant and his ‘mahout’ to follow the jungle paths in search of animals is the best and certainly most entertaining way to see the park.  Sitting atop Mudumalai, our gentle giant over 10 feet above the ground, provided a memorable 5 hour observation of life in the Sal forest jungle .  Just remember that the Royal Bengal tigers have gone the way of the Nepali Kings, even if the guides tell you differently.
 
Rhinos, standing like Sherman tanks, are some of the most predictable animals. Taking a dump weighing up to 25-30 pounds, in the same place every day, establishes their territory.  It also allows poachers to plan their attack.  Before going to the bathroom at this now mountain of dung, the rhino stops and then takes 2 steps backwards.   The poachers simply dig a hole at the edge of the dung pile and when the unsuspecting rhino does his little 2 step shuffle backing up to let it fly, he instead falls backwards into the hole. Creatures of habit.   In the west only humans are so uptight about bathroom habits.  After all we all have to go.  This may be a warning against us becoming too predictable.  Let spontaneity whisk you away once in a awhile.

Elephants are used for many different purposes: religious ceremonies, tourism, rescues, research, and labor.  Most ‘mahouts’ or elephant owners are more than trainers, they are joined at the soul with their animal.  They are their friends.  It is common to see a small boy, barely 3 feet tall, ‘control’ his 9 ft tall buddy with a small twig.  At one time it was only permissible for the emperors to own elephants and they were even traded to Roman rulers in exchange for horses or other rarities.  It  is always amazing to see one of these walking road blocks on busy roads, totally unaffected by the traffic whizzing by.   These gentle giants have always fascinated us;  from the first time I saw one in the little circus tent in northern Wisconsin as a child, to the plains of Africa, to the jungles of Asia and India.  We were able to have unique up close encounters with the 20 elephants and their 6 babies at the nearby Elephant Breeding Center.  It is always fun to watch the antics of the babies as they thrash around, wrestle with branches, play tag and try to act grown up.  Bred and raised here, the juveniles are taken away with their new mahout and trained.  Once trained they are taken in town to get adjusted to traffic and they are exposed to fire, people, animals, etc.  Skittish elephants and tourists don’t do well in India or Nepal.  Soon the educated juveniles start their life in one of their many areas of service.

We learned some interesting facts about elephants.  Their trunks, with more than 40,000 muscles in them are an extension of their nose and lip (a human has 650 muscles in our entire body).  They are extremely strong – yet sensitive enough to pick up a grain of rice.  Elephants communicate in sound waves below the frequencies of human hearing.  They cool off by fanning their ears but prefer a good cool dip.  They are excellent swimmers and after a bath they will have a sleep; always standing up.  Gentle, sensitive, and with great memories the family group has a greeting ceremony when a friend that has been away for a long time returns home.  The family unit is guarded by the tusker, or male sporting ivory tusks, but these valuable tusks are often cut off to dissuade poachers.   

Pachyderms pay careful attention to their young and can be seen frolicking with the little ones.  At one reserve in Africa there were too many elephants so the wardens relocated some of the old males.  The young juveniles started causing trouble.  It was finally necessary to return a couple “Grandpas” and the problems stopped immediately.  Elephants honor each other, their elders and pay special tribute to those who die.  Maybe our fast moving society could learn a thing or two from these wise mammals.
 

And so it goes…………………………………..Next Katmandu and even Colorado & Wisconsin, on the other side of the globe.   Until next month Keep Smiling and remember to keep spontaneous and flexible, even when first setting foot on the summit of Everest!  We are glad you stopped by.     Thanks for keeping in touch!  Take care!

Love, Light & Laughter, 
xoxoox  Nancy & Joseph

Travel notes:

$1.00US = 68 Nepalese Rupees

Foreigners can only cross from Darjeeling India into Nepal via Pasupati/Kakarbhita.

Kakarbhita:
Hotel Moonlight, Mechinagar -10 Karkavitta, try room 115, overlooking the neighboring pool (music stops at dark).  Supervise the “recleaning” of the room and it is an ok option for 300r.  This street, right off the main road from immigration is next to the bus depot so get a room in the back.  There are literally dozens of other options along this dusty, noisy street.

Dharan Bazar:
Hotel Saanijh, Dharan – 9, Sunsari, Phone # 522010, 025 532800, cell 9852045459.  Clean but small rooms with windows.  The only place near the bus station that resembles a real room to stay/with bathroom.  People aren’t very helpful but it is a good place to stay if stuck between buses; bargain hard.  From the main bus square walk left for a block or so then turn down an alley.

Basantapur:
Taplejung Hotel & Lodge,  Phone # 026-469048 Basantapur 4, Terthum:
Room 01 in front – top floor,  (250r – clean bathroom down the hall))  On the hill entering town, get off the bus at the bottom of the hairpin turn.
Don’t miss this town.

Hile:
(between Dhankuta and Basantapur)
Hotel Hill View just up the hill from the bus stand in town, basic but clean, good views.

Dhankuta:
New Anjulee Hotel & Lodge, Hulaktol – 7 , phone # 026-520366, this wonderful little gem is hard to spot.  Up the hill behind the bus station.  Walking through the old building towards the back and up the stairs you will be astonished to see your room perched along the mountainside with sweeping views of the valleys beyond.  Another town not to miss – plan around the Thursday weekend market.

Sauraha, Chitwan:
Jungle Wildlife Camp: Worn but clean rooms, 400r, with balconies or sitting areas right on the river. Good views of the park across the water, elephants heading out to work and sunsets, all seen from the green garden area. Try room 505? or 503? on the river, with screens and mosquito nets. The manager is very helpful, but his tours are 100-200r more. A 5 minute walk from town, phone # 00977 -1-4700490, mobile # 984026574.
 

We met Deepak from the Chitwan Forest Resort, who said he managed the resort with a Swiss man and cleanliness was utmost in their program. If you want a change from the almost clean Nepali routine give them a call. Rooms starting as 300r. Phone # 00977 56580052 or 9845044150.