“Too often we underestimate the power of a touch, a smile, a kind word, a listening ear, an honest compliment, or the smallest act of caring, all of which have the potential to turn a life around.

(Leo Buscaglia – Former professor at U.C.L.A )

Bandits!  Every matatu north has 1 or 2 armed soldiers for protection but it seems that the Somalian bandits have moved further south and are getting more brazen.  Six people were recently killed when their bus was ambushed by these nasty guys.  The war raging in their country has pushed them south to pillage in neighboring Kenya.  It is always important to check conditions before heading into troubled regions.  Earlier we had a quick change of plans when we met a man who had been in hospital for a week.  His matatu had been attacked and robbed by Somalian bandits on the roads 100 miles north of Isiolo.    Speeding along the dusty road south back towards the safer green slopes of Mt. Kenya and on towards the coast, Joseph’s suitcase met with an unfortunate end as it went flying off the top of the matatu, bouncing behind us in a cloud of dust.  The usual “Sorry” was uttered but his dear companion of 4 years had to be replaced.  No longer able to ‘roll along’ we would have been excommunicated from our tribe.  We wonder if the warranty would have covered that?

On the bus the sidekick was wearing a t-shirt stating: Fact – Ninjas Hate Pirates – sponsored by the World Association of Ninjas Against Pirates.  Bandits by land, Pirates by sea these Somalian outlaws have effectively struck terror into the hearts of  their neighbors and certainly the close to 400 international ships they have attacked in the last year.  Now requiring armed military ships as escorts for a high price (sounds fishy), many shipping lines have chosen to instead go around South Africa to avoid the rat infested water altogether.  As the deserts creep south due to mismanagement of the land and overpopulation, we can expect territorial wars over more fertile lands to the south.  We observed this happening as we made our way up the Kenyan coast.  Desperate Somalian herders drive their herds into neighboring Kenya; a place barely able to support their own cattle and land.  Pandora’s box is about to spring open.

Finally reaching the tiny island of Lamu up near the Somalian border we soon realized we had found a place like few remaining on earth.  A safe little harbor hiding a window into Swahili life in times gone by.  Reached by dhow or wooden sailing boat there are no noisy vehicles here, aside from one small 3 wheeled ambulance which we witnessed being pushed along the sand road.  ‘Everyone is already where they want to be’ and we decided to follow suit.  Mainly Swahili Muslims with Arabic roots, call to prayer rings out 5 times a day with the small donkeys, the only transportation available on the island, braying in time.  Most town women walk around completely covered in heavy black robes and head covers ‘buri buris’, while the men enjoy cooler white cotton outfits and fez hats.  Muslim women from the fishing villages often cover just their heads with colorful scarves and unwrapped Christian women walk around cool and smiling as they enjoy the sea breezes.  Everyone gathers in the town square under the shade of the banyan tree or along the waterfront drinking coconuts or quietly visiting. 

“Esalamu eleikum” (peace be with you) is always pleasantly returned with “Eleikum esalamu.”  Taught to recite, “Hello.  How are you?  I am fine,” in class at primary school, a cheery “Hello” is often rebounded with “Fine”, by those who don’t remember any English.  Whatever the response the warmth with which it is expressed is contagious in this friendly Muslim corner of the world. Narrow alleyways or stone footpaths create a maze of whitewashed buildings dotted with small mosques, stalls or markets.  Completely safe and friendly we definitely will return here someday.  Safe that is except for the punk donkey drivers who hit me one afternoon as I stepped out of a door way, sending me spinning.  With the traditional “Sorry” yelled in their wake, off these delinquents sped.  “What’s becoming of the young people nowadays?” (as per Socrates 399 B.C.)  Evenings with the full moon rising over the ocean were magic.  Until we return, ‘Lala Salama’ peaceful dreams!

A young Masai moran we made friends with in Lamu told us he had built up a cattle herd to fifty head and had finally begun looking for a wife.  Within the last 6 months all but 2 of his cows had died of dehydration.  He was devastated.   Everything he had been taught and raised to do literally had vanished with the dust.  He cut his long braids off but still dressed in the traditional red plaid wrap and carrying a club, he traveled to the coast in search of employment.  He has convinced his fellow moran that tribal traditions must change.  Changes forced by overpopulation and the ensuing drought.  These modern thinking young Masai are discussing having less children and sending those children, for the first time, to school.  They realize the value of education to adapt to the new lifestyle they are being forced into.  As one Masai said, ” I want my sons to grow up side by side with the Nature.  That way, there will be a link between my ancestors, me and the future.”  Disconnecting from Nature has broken this link across the planet.  Our future hangs by a thread.  The only thing constant in life is change and the time for change is now.