Enchanting. The Cinque Terre, five towns, is a string of five fishing villages perched high on the Italian Riviera in the region Liguria.  Until recently these charming villages were linked only by mule tracks and accessible only by rail or water.

The Cinque Terre is noted for its stunning beauty. Over centuries, people have built terraces to cultivate grapes, lemons and olives on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the Mediterranean Sea.

The breathtaking views of harbors far below the wild coastline, along with the medieval fortresses, plentiful vines and vibrant colors etches a forever image in one’s mind.

This strategic coastline played an important role in the Roman Empire. Battles demolished the small coastal villages. Local people ran away to the hills.

In the 11th century, the local tribes moved back down to the sea and built their first dwellings. The new inhabitants started a heroic work that we still admire today. They turned the natural forests and rough, steep slopes into cultivated terraces, built dry stone walls and planted grape vines. The villages were often under attack by pirates, so guards kept an eye on the sea from many watchtowers. Luckily, the villages of the Cinque Terre had a strong defense system.  In the 15th century, locals started to use the name “Cinque Terre” and the coast became famous for its wine. 

In 1870, Italy was unified and many rail lines were built. The coastal line between Genoa and Rome passed through the Cinque Terre so the villages could be reached by train. By the 1960s, the winding coastal road was finished; it offers amazing views over the villages and the sea.  Since 1997, the Cinque Terre has been a UNESCO World Heritage site and is now a National Park.

The ancient system of footpaths is still the best way to visit the five villages. The coastal path goes from east to west, starting in Riomaggiore – which is also the first stop on the railway line from La Spezia – and finishes in Monterosso.

The construction of the railway in the 1920s is responsible for one of the most astounding stretches of the coastal path – the so called “Via dell’Amore” (‘Love Lane’). This is the section of the path we explored for a day.  Without a doubt the views were brilliant. Unfortunately, several sections of the path to Monterosso were under construction but Via dell’ Amore gave us a taste of what lay ahead. 

This wide, flat section of path (not indicative of what’s to come!) was first built as a service road in order to access the railway works, but soon after these works were completed, it was transformed into a promenade, lined with blue iron-wrought railings. The railings have been reinforced but still offer views of the dramatic rock formations below.

Amazingly, these tourist-filled villages have managed to retain their charm, tiered like colorful wedding cakes along the cliff-sides. They are riddled with mazes of tiny alleyways and it is easy to soak in the fishermen’s village atmosphere and way of life. 

Starting from the east, Riomaggiore is a cascade of old, tall multicolored houses, in the typical Ligurian style; all converging to a sheltered harbor where sailors still mend their nets and paint their boats to this very day, among beach-goers and tourists sipping wine in cliffside cafes.

Heading west, Manarola is smaller, but also clustered around a small cove occupied by fishermen’s boats; its position and topography is somewhat more secluded, which perhaps gives it a more intimate feel.

A higher stretch of the coastal path then leads from Manarola to Corniglia – the wine producing hub of the region. Being right at the center of the region and on a high location, Corniglia offers sweeping views on either side of the Cinque Terre, and provides a welcome resting place if you are following the coastal path from either direction.

Following the most strenuous section of the walk one ends up in Vernazza, possibly the most historical of the five villages.  Here there are remnants of old Medieval houses, incorporated in the ‘palazzata’ (literally, “curtain of houses”) by the seafront, while the ruins of the castle command the best views in the whole of the Cinque Terre; the atmospheric ancient church is also perched directly on the rocks, right by the harbor. Medieval houses, the castle; all surrounded by the vine-covered steep hills seem magically suspended between mountains and sea.

The last stretch, with stunning views, takes one from Vernazza to Monterosso, the biggest center of the five: a more modern town with a charming historical part; a knot of alleyways clustered around the church, with its typical Ligurian façade striped white and black. Boasting wide sandy beaches Monterosso attracts most of the tourists in this region.

We made Riomaggiore our base, jumping off the train from Pisa then La Spezia.  Riomaggiore became home and Barbara welcomed us like a long lost Aunt.  We easily slipped into the rhythm of this colorful fishing village and explored the ancient trails, steps and maze of alleyways weaving this tapestry together.

From there we hopped back on the little train and explored the other villages. Wandering the streets near the Plaza in Monterosso, in search of a quaint café for dinner, we happened upon an interesting 90 yr. old gentleman sitting along the alley.  Salvatore Nicora, Poeta del Amore (Poet of Love).   We struck up a conversation, as we have been known to do, and soon the large wooden doors were flung open and his private museum unveiled.  “I make 90 years because I love life.  I live in Love everyday.  Love everything.  Love Everybody!”  A fascinating, private guided tour ended with this poet singing a love ballad to us, the happy couple.  How could we be anything but happy in this romantic, enchanting corner of Italy?

And so it goes………………………………Next wandering the historical streets, alleys and piazzas of Florence.   Until then Keep Laughing, Keep Living Life to the Fullest, and remember to enjoy the corner of the Universe around you!   We are glad you stopped by!   Take care!

Love, Light & Laughter, 

xo  Nancy & Joseph