Jan-Feb 2022: Gibraltar

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Discover: Gibraltar

“Adventure is allowing the unexpected to happen to you. Exploration is experiencing what you have not experienced before. How can there be any adventure, any exploration without elements of spontaneity?"

(Richard Aldington, Death of a Hero)

Spontaneous. What is life without spontaneity?  Not knowing anything about “The Rock” we wandered off the ship.  What we needed appeared.  A small van operated by Mike, who has lived on the rock for 36 years, whisked a few unsuspecting passengers away and before we knew it we were face to face with the infamous Gibraltar apes. What cheeky buggers they were.  Men have come and gone on this Rock.  The Pillars of Hercules continue guarding the Mediterranean from the Atlantic, and still the apes remain.  Just the day before a woman was walking under a tree when a large Macau monkey jumped on her back, grabbed her purse filled with money, passport, jewelry and disappeared over the side of the mountain in a split second. Monkeys are monkeys! Other monkeys get real friendly.  Mike introduced us to Dracula.  He sat on the door handle and reach through pulling Mike’s hair, shirt and rubbing his arm.  Others come sit on his lap and help him drive.  I saw one overly forward guy actually open a van door and steal the biscuits on the front seat!

The rock is home to around 300 Barbary Macaques. Originally from Morocco, the monkeys have been in Gibraltar for over 300 years. Legend says that as long as the monkeys exist in Gibraltar the territory will remain under British rule. During World War II the population dwindled to just seven monkeys, so Prime Minister Winston Churchill ordered that their numbers be replenished from both Algeria and Morocco.

So what is this rock?  Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and headland, on Spain’s south coast. It’s dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, a 426m-high limestone ridge. First settled by the Moors in the Middle Ages and later ruled by Spain; the outpost was ceded to the British in 1713. Layers of fortifications include the remains of a 14th-century Moorish Castle and the 18th century Great Siege Tunnels, which were expanded in WWII.  It is the only entrance to the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean, and thus heavily fortified by the British.

Travel around 1000 miles south of London and you’ll be on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula. Gibraltar is a small-town bordering Spain, with a population of 32,000.  Despite its tiny size, this incredible landscape has a rich history and lots of nature. Adding to the natural appeal of Gibraltar is its artificial reef, created in the 1980s with damaged ships and an existing cable-laying vessel that was already laying at 50ft under the water. Today the reef is teeming with colorful fish, silver bream, lobsters and even an occasional octopus.

Gibraltar is a haven for birds, with more than 2500 species stopping between Europe and Africa. Gibraltar is an incredibly welcoming place for all religions, with representatives from the synagogue, church and mosque working together to ensure a safe and pleasant environment. It is home to the southernmost mosque in Europe. The Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque is one of the largest mosques in a non-Muslim country and was gifted to Gibraltar by the King of Saudi Arabia.

Gibraltar is so small that there are only 29 km (18 miles) of roads.  This tiny 2.6 sq. mile rock is all but quiet.  Looks can be deceiving.  We discovered some interesting sides to Gibraltar.  For instance, the airport has the 4 lane Winston Churchill Ave. running down the middle of its runway.  The RAF has to close off this main road every time a plane is scheduled to land.  One third of the runway is built out into the ocean to allow for safe landings.  At 426 meters, the Rock of Gibraltar is higher than the Empire State Building in New York, perfect site for radar equipment. Every year over 60,000 ships pass through Gibraltar’s waters, acting as a crossroads between the Mediterranean and Atlantic shipping lanes. This unique geographic position means that the port acts as a great supply point for passing ships.

Gibraltar Mountain contains 34,000 miles of tunnels. During World War II the tunnels became an underground fortress that could hold 16,000 personnel and their equipment and supplies.   This strategic location has been a hotbed of conflict for control through history.  At three years, seven months and 12 days the Great Siege of Gibraltar is the longest endured by the British Armed Forces. Beginning on 24th June 1779 the siege was an attempt by Spain and France to capture Gibraltar from the British. After three years the siege came to an end when a British convoy of 31 transport ships managed to break the blockade, bringing in vital supplies, food, ammunition, and troops.  With these reinforcements negotiations were reopened and a peace treaty signed.

Despite being a British Overseas Territory, with English and Spanish widely spoken, Gibraltar also has its own language. Llanito is a mix of Andalusian Spanish and English, with words from Portugal and Malta thrown in. There are even some words from medieval dialects and some from Hebrew origins. 

Seeing the illuminated stalactites of St Michael’s Cave is one of the top things to do in Gibraltar. Once believed to be bottomless, St Michael’s Cave is a truly magical location in Gibraltar.  Thanks to the legend that the cave was bottomless, it was long believed that there was an underground passage connecting the territory to Africa via the Strait of Gibraltar.  Adding to this legend, the Rock of Gibraltar’s population of Barbary macaques are believed to have travelled to the Rock through this passage.  Today the cave is open for visitors to explore on guided tours and for unique events, including concerts, theatrical performances and ballets.

Exploring Gibraltar’s Moorish Castle is another highlight in Gibraltar.  The Moorish Castle dates from 1160 and still carries battle scars from numerous attacks and sieges over the centuries.  In 1540 hundreds of residents found sanctuary inside the tower as Turkish pirates ransacked the area.  Despite being a tourist attraction today, its courtyard served as a functioning prison until 2010.  The views over Gibraltar, the Mediterranean, and towards Spain are stunning from the battlements.

Europa Point and its lighthouse are at the very tip of Gibraltar. The Greeks and Phoenicians travelled to Gibraltar using the Rock as a guide during ancient times, landing here. According to legend, Hercules passed through Europa Point to complete his tenth labor, opened up the strait, and created the pillars seen at Europa Point.

Gibraltar’s Botanic Gardens opened to the public in 1816 and since then have provided a welcome place of tranquility.  Taking the cable car up to the Rock is one of the fun things to do in Gibraltar. Next to the Botanic Gardens entrance is the cable car, which takes six minutes and is a picturesque way to reach the top of the Rock.  Once you reach the top, you will find three terraces featuring a café and gift shop, a restaurant with incredible views, and an interactive exhibition.  It is possible to access the Rock on foot from one of many footpaths leading up from the streets below, or for a more relaxing option, the cable car can do the work for you. Mike helped us wind our way up the Rock in his van. From the top of the Rock, there are incredible views across Europe, Africa, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. 

Catalan Bay is a small fishing village and bay on the eastern side of the Rock. Those residing in the colorful houses in the village are primarily the descendants of Genoese fishermen who settled in the area during the 19th century.  There is a small shop, several restaurants, and Our Lady of Sorrows church.

Upper Rock Nature Reserve became a nature reserve in 1993 to protect Gibraltar’s biodiversity and natural habitats. The boundary was extended in 2013 to include new areas that needed protection. Across the nature reserve are numerous trails leading to sights of historical importance, incredible viewpoints and back down the Rock through stunning scenery.

One of the most popular things to do in Gibraltar is to explore Europa Point, which has walking paths and an architecturally impressive mosque.

One of the most iconic hotels in Gibraltar is The Rock Hotel.  John Chrichton-Stuart, the Marquis of Bute, built the hotel in 1932 in the art deco style. The hotel has long been a hotspot for the rich and famous, including Sir Winston Churchill, Alec Guinness and Sean Connery.  John Lennon and Yoko Ono exchanged their wedding vows in one of the hotel’s private rooms. The hotel encapsulates Gibraltar’s colonial heritage through its design and light whitewashed façade. Many rooms have stunning views out over Gibraltar to the Strait.

One of the unique things about Gibraltar is its British feel in a Mediterranean climate. The streets are lined with red phone boxes; there is a Marks and Spencer and even a Morrison’s grocery store. Pubs serve traditional British foods and there is an excellent fish and chip restaurant in Casemates Square. Mediterranean influences include Calentita, a baked pastry that serves as the national dish. Despite its small size, there are easily many things to do in Gibraltar for a fantastic weekend away.

When you’ve run out of things to do in Gibraltar, head across the border to Spain. Here’s the view of Gibraltar from La Linea de la Concepcion in Spain.  Many locals in the Spanish town of La Linea work in Gibraltar and cross the border each day on foot.  Heading to the border can be done by walking across the runway or taking a taxi or bus. After heading through Spanish passport control, explore the border town of La Linea where you will find bars, tapas restaurants and shops, as well as a golden sandy beach.

Spontaneity will soon be on the endangered list it seems. Look around you.  Jeremy Glass wrote, “We can’t jump off bridges anymore because our iPhones will get ruined. We can’t take skinny dips in the ocean because there’s no service on the beach and adventures aren’t real unless they’re on Instagram. Technology has doomed the spontaneity of adventure and we’re helping destroy it every time we Google, check-in, and hashtag.”  Nowadays it is necessary to have a cell phone for travel.  When out exploring do yourself, your friends, your family a favor and turn off your phone.  Travelling forces us into the moment.  Carpe Diem. Seize the Moment. Explore.  Enjoy the NOW.

 

And so it goes…………………………………..Next off to hidden, unknown Montenegro.   Until then Keep Laughing, Keep Living Life to the Fullest, and remember to be spontaneous once in a while!  We are glad you stopped by. Take care and keep in touch!

 

Love, Light & Laughter, 

 

xo  Nancy & Joseph

 

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Travel Notes:

Ola!
(Hi in Lanito)

 

1 United States Dollar equals

0.88 Pound sterling

 

You can fly, sail, drive or walk into Gibraltar

Many hotels to book online – the top one is the

Rock Hotel
Address: 3 Europa Rd, Gibraltar GX11 1AA, Gibraltar

Phone: +350 200 73000

The Rock Hotel is the landmark and the most historic of the hotels in Gibraltar since 1932. It has enhanced its colonial heritage and art décor style.

 

Enjoy more of Gibraltar!

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