I met him on a windswept hillside, where the air smelled sweet, of the grapes of his labor. We shared a gaze over the stunning ocean and mountains below. Just across the inlet was Croatia, “Dobar dan!” This man and his predecessors have tilled this earth for centuries; turning rocky soil into rich wine and olive oil. And so we were enveloped into the lives of these sturdy, admirable farmers. Survivors.
Sailing into Kotor, Montenegro is one of the most breathtaking natural views in Europe. Down the long narrow inlet, with stunning mountains rising from the sea on both sides, we docked at Kotor. Having booked a separate shore excursion, we once again missed the hordes disembarking. We arrived and looked for our small group, rejoicing to find out that we were it – total 2! “This is going to be a fantastic experience!” We weren’t disappointed!
Off to the Lustica Peninsula in our own minivan, Jovana was a joy to spend the day with. The scenery was stunning, the day sunny, and within an hour we arrived at the village of Mrkovi and on to the 400 year old farm of the Mrkocevic family. For generations they have toiled on the land; blood, sweat and tears transformed into quality wine, oil, and crops.
Hello, Zdravo. Kako ste? Warmly greeted we were shown the small farm with the big yield. Perched on the side of the rocky slope, we were impressed with their rich, full life and the pride they felt.
A little birdie told the family we were vegan and they set about preparing the tastiest humus, warm homemade bread, sautéed garden vegetables, olives and wine imaginable. Walking the land, learning about the arduous processing of the crops, and tasting the fruits of their labors was a rich rewarding experience. Having a strong bond with my Croatian relatives across the inlet, I almost felt as though we had stopped by at Auntie Anna’s farm for a visit. Hvala!
The history of Montenegro is a colorful one, with the theme of striving for freedom in the forefront. Montenegro was the only country in the Balkans that successfully fought against the Ottoman Empire. Montenegrins will tell many interesting stories from the various periods in time – from the grand Roman Empire to the modern times. Although its territory is rather small, this proud country has a lot to say when it comes to its history.
The name “Crna Gora” (Montenegro) is mentioned for the first time in the Charter of King Milutin, in 1276. It is believed that it got its name after the dense forests that covered Mount Lovcen and the surrounding area. The forests were so dark that the observers got the impression of a “black” mountain. Unfortunately all that remains is the name, the forests have been mostly clear cut.
The 20th century represented a difficult period for Montenegro, as it lost its independence at the time and it disappeared from the political map of Europe. When World War I broke out, Montenegro sided with Serbia and the allies. In 1916, after surrendering to Austro-Hungary, King Nikola went to exile. Serbia annexed Montenegro in 1918 and thus Montenegro lost everything that it gained through the centuries: its statehood, army and dynasty.
With the fall of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia before the fascist Germany in World War II, Montenegro proved again that the spirit of freedom cherished by its people did not disappear. On July 13, 1941, a large number of Montenegrins stood up against the Italian occupiers and their push for dicatorship After World War II Montenegro improved its legal and state status and became one of the six equal republics of the Yugoslav federation.
After the turbulent years, in the end of the 20th century, and after the disintegration of former Yugoslavia, Montenegro remained in the union with Serbia, thus these two republics formed the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Most citizens at referendum held on May 21, 2006 voted independence of Montenegro. Thus today Montenegro is an independent state internationally recognized. UN received Montenegro as 192nd country member on July 27, 2006.
Slowly winding our way back to Kotor, we arrived and found the fortified, walled city all but abandoned. The medieval old town was a maze of alleys, squares, shops, markets and cathedrals. Even our search for potato-filled flakey pastry or kompira, was successful. Transported back in time, we meandered, explored and got lost for several hours. Only a blast from the deafening horn of Sky Princess snapped us back to reality. Boarding the floating land mass once again we stood at the bow soaking in the beautiful orange sunset setting over the Bay of Kotor. Laku noc!
And so it goes…………………………………..Next off to vibrant, avant-garde, at times pretentious, France. Until then Keep Laughing, Keep Living Life to the Fullest, and remember to honor our farmers. Without them we will get awfully hungry! We are glad you stopped by. Take care and drop a line!
Love, Light & Laughter,
xo Nancy & Joseph
